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Business Mirror
Written by Cooks / Nancy Reyes-Lumen
Thursday, 18 June 2009 18:51

The ‘Calamansi’ Book

Happy birthday, Dr. Jose Rizal! I’m pretty sure our National Hero enjoyed the pleasing tartness of our local backyard citrus—the calamansi. No doubt, he used it with patis for the tasty blend, to soften the asim of vinegar, and he squeezed it for a refreshing drink. Many more are the uses of calamansi....but did you ever think it would be the title for a little cookbook? And written by an adopted son of our Pinoy land—a German scholar by the name of Dr. Tilman Baumgärtel? It’s a delightful read.

THIS Father’s Day, attention goes to dads, uncles, kuyas, lolos...and to those in the know...to “Papas”. If you’re not cooking a feast for any Father’s Day celebrator this Sunday, don’t fret. Buy him a copy of this book, recently released by Anvil and sold at National Book Store. The author is a dad/cook/film expert...and German.

We got to meet briefly with Dr. Tilman Baumgärtel at Katre Mediterranean Restaurant, where he watched with us an episode of Secrets of the Masters, wherein Chef Rox was the guest chef. Apparently, Dr. Tilman is a foodie, for he was glued to the tube watching the recipes of Chef Rox come to life.

Then he mentioned he and his family were moving from the Philippines, after years of living here—eating our food, shopping at the wet markets and supermarkets here, cooking, learning from the household members their cooking styles, more cooking, aside from what he really did for a living: being a professor in the University of the Philippines for the Institute of Southeast Asian Film Studies. Dr. Tilman is German, but his palate has morphed to a Pinoy level!


Triggered to write

WE asked the author to relate how he came to write the book. Other questions followed and his answers were all interesting despite the fact that the next day he and his family were leaving the country for good for a new assignment. He would miss having a book launch and we would miss getting him to sign our copy. Anyway, here’s Dr. Tilman, up close and personal about his Calamansi Book. Buy it, read it, “taste” it.

What prompted you to write this book? How long after? After how many dishes, pieces, foodie friends did you sit down and start?

I felt that it would be a waste if all the things I learned about food in the Philippines would go undocumented. There are so many foreigners coming to the Philippines to stay at any given time, and they all have to start from scratch. I thought it would be useful if they would not have to go through the same learning process that I went through, and instead benefit from my experiences. I started to work on my book in my fourth year of living in the Philippines.

Among the recipes, what was the most challenging to write about?

The recipes were easy, since these had been well-rehearsed by the time I started the book. The trick was to come up with creative ways of making European dishes with local ingredients. One eureka moment was when I figured out that you can use kesong puti whenever mozzarella is called for. Once I had that down, I could not stop playing around with kesong puti in spreads, lasagna, parmigiana, salads...etc.

The most time went into researching all the ingredients, the fruits, the vegetables, etc. There were a lot of things I knew as an eater, but then I had to find out how certain fruits, etc., came into the Philippines. I hope that the part about the ingredients would be the most useful of the book.

Did you cook any of the dishes yourself?

All of them, repeatedly. Otherwise, there’s no point in doing a book like that, as it is about my personal recipes. One dish I never got perfectly was leche flan.

How long did it take you to complete the manuscript?

Research: four years living in the Philippines. Writing: maybe  two months....

Of all the food regions, which is the best for you?

In the Philippines? Or in the world ? In the world, it would be Mediterranean, especially Italy and Morocco. In the Philippines I am too ignorant about the finer points of the cuisines of the regions. It’s just too diverse, and the best food is never the stuff you get in restaurants. Among the Asian cuisines, the Japanese are the uncrowned masters of perfecting food. The most interesting cuisine in Asia is Singapore—you have these different influences coming together.

I especially like the “Don’t Try This At Home” section where you suggest readers rather buy than make certain dishes. To me your list is a challenge. And to your list, you can add: dinuguan, longganisa, crispy pata....

It never occurred to me that I could make my own longganisa and crispy pata. I definitely dislike it! It reminds me of German pork knuckles. I don’t know dinuguan...sorry.

All-around calamansi

DR. Tilman said he liked the flavor and aroma of our calamansi, and Pinoys use it in almost anything, so he decided to use the word for his book title.

Who doesn’t like calamansi? It is not just a drink or a flavoring—not just a source of vitamin C, or drink for reducing, for that matter. It can also be used for cosmetics as a natural kili-kili whitener. Most of all, it is excellent as a marinade for meats partnered only with the equally favored Kikkoman soy sauce to enhance the flavors of almost anything that’s meant to be delicious...from turkey, to steak, roast beef, roast pork, lechong manok...an endless list.

Nancy’s note

TO my foodie friend and dad Alex “Handy” Reyes: “I will never forget you and will never stop loving your memory.”

 

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